How to Make the World’s Best Paper Airplanes

world's best paper airplane instructions

There are many skills fathers should pass on to their children: how to ride a bike, how to skip a stone, and of course, how to make a paper airplane. When it’s time to show your kids how to fold a humble piece of paper into a soaring jet, don’t stumble around and hastily construct one from the poor memory of your youth — one that takes a disappointing nosedive as soon as it leaves your fingertips. Instead, teach them the art of making a plane that can truly go the distance.

The three designs below are tried and true (you wouldn’t believe some of the science behind paper airplanes) and are perfect beginner, moderate, and expert level models to play with. They go in order from easiest to hardest, so there’s something for every age level — including adult; don’t act like you’re not going to try these out in the break room.

The Bulldog Dart

This paper airplane is a warm-up of sorts. It’s simple, requires few folds, and flies well. It’s just not going to win you any contests or style points. If it’s your kid’s first time making a real paper airplane, this is a good place to start.

world's best paper airplane instructions

First you fold the paper in half lengthwise, and then unfold. This initial crease is simply a guideline for the next folds.

world's best paper airplane instructions

Fold the top two corners down so they meet the center crease. This is the classic way to start a paper airplane, and probably what you first learned as a kid.

world's best paper airplane instructions

Flip the plane over, and fold the corners in again to the center crease. You want the diagonal line coming off the top of the plane (on the left side) to be lined up with the middle (like on the right side).

world's best paper airplane instructions

After both folds are completed.

world's best paper airplane instructions

Fold the top point down so that the tip meets the bottom of where the previous folds come together.

world's best paper airplane instructions

Fold the entire plane in half, in on itself. This creates the snub nose, which gives the Bulldog Dart its name.

world's best paper airplane instructions

Fold the wings down so that you’re making a straight line across from the top of the snub nose. Repeat on the other side.

paper airplane bulldog dart

The finished Bulldog Dart. This flies better when thrown at lower speeds. Your tendency is to launch it, but the heavy nose will just fly it into the ground. Give it a softer throw and you’ll have better luck.

The Harrier

This is a slightly more advanced paper airplane. There are a few more folds, and it flies a bit better than the above Bulldog Dart. This is the perfect middle ground between simple and complex recreational paper aircraft.

paper airplane harrier folding instructions

Start the same way you did with the Bulldog. Fold in half lengthwise and then unfold. Again, this center crease is just a guide for future folds.

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Fold the top corners in so they meet at the center crease.

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Fold the entire top down so that it resembles an envelope. Make sure you leave a half inch or so at the bottom — you don’t want the top point to evenly meet the bottom edge.

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Fold the top corners in so they meet at the middle. There should be a small triangle tail hanging out beneath these folds.

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Fold that small triangle up to hold those previous folds in place.

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Fold in half, but make you sure you fold it outwards on itself, not inwards. You want the previous triangular fold to be visible on the bottom edge.

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Fold the wing down so its edge meets the bottom edge of the airplane. Repeat on the other side.

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The finished Harrier. It has cool pointed wings and has great stability because of the triangle on the bottom.

The Hammer

While there are far more advanced paper airplanes, this one, in my opinion, is the perfect balance of complexity and accessibility for the Average Paper Airplane Joe. It has far more folds than the previous two models, and also flies the best and farthest. Pay attention with this one, folks, and the payoff is well worth it.

paper airplane hammer folding instructions

This one starts a little differently than your average paper airplane. First, fold the top left corner all the way down so it meets the right edge of the paper. You’ll then unfold, as this will be a guiding crease.

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Repeat the same thing with the top right corner and unfold.

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You should end up with an unfolded sheet of paper with two creases forming an X.

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Now, fold the top right corner down so that its edge meets the crease that goes from top left to bottom right.

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Do the same with the left corner. The top left point should exactly meet the diagonal right edge of the airplane.

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Fold the plane in half in on itself, then unfold. You’ll use that middle crease as a guide.

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After you’ve unfolded the previous step, fold the top down so that its edge meets the bottom edge.

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Fold the top corners down so that their points meet at the middle crease.

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Unfold — as with many steps in making this airplane, these creases are a guide.

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Now take what was the top edge that you previously folded down (3 images back) and fold it back up at the point where its edge meets the creases from the previous step.

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Fold the corners in yet again so that their edge meets both the edge of the top flap and the crease from two steps ago.

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Both corners folded in, meeting both the top flap and the previously-made creases. These are ultimately the wings.

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Fold the wings in once more, this time simply folding along the crease that you already made. After this step your plane should have straight lines down from the top to the bottom.

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Both wings folded in again; straight edges from top to bottom.

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Fold the top down from where it meets the top of the wing flaps you created in the previous step.

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Fold the whole thing in half outward. You want all the paper flaps on the outside of the craft. At this point, folding can become a little tricky because of the thickness of the paper, so take extra care in making good, clean folds.

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Fold the wings down so that their edge meets the bottom edge of the plane. This creates a small snub nose. Again, this can be a tough fold, so be precise and take your time if you have to.

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The finished Hammer. This bad boy flies like a dream.

Source: www.artofmanliness.com

How To Start A Fire Using Only A Bottle Of Water




Here’s a technique you can use to start a fire for survival if you having nothing but a water bottle and a bright sunny day. If you like survival and fire-making techniques, this video is a must see!You’d think water would be the last thing you could use to start a fire… apparently not!

This could straight up save your life one day if you find yourself in a survival situation. Some may call this life engineering, for something so simple it is incredibly useful.

So there you have it! Now if you’re stuck out in the wild somewhere without any matches you’ll know what to do to keep warm.




How to Stop Saying Um

how-to-stop-saying-um

Becoming Well-Spoken: How to Minimize Your Uh’s and Um’s

In the pursuit of becoming a better man, becoming well-spoken is a task that should not be overlooked. How you speak is a huge component of the impression you make on others, and thus your potential influence on them. People will form judgments about your education, intelligence, background, and personality simply based on the sound of your voice and the language you use to express yourself.

 

Being well-spoken encompasses a lot of traits:

  • Creating well-formed sentences
  • Being articulate
  • Having a large and diverse vocabulary
  • Speaking clearly (not mumbling)Having a good pace, tone, and intonation (not too loud, fast, or monotone)
  • Being fluent – words come easily to you
  • Being able to explain things easily
  • Being straightforward and meaning what you say
  • Being thoughtful and courteous to the needs of the listener
  • Using little filler and empty language

 

We hope to cover all of these traits eventually, but today we’re going to concentrate on the last item on the list: removing the filler — particularly the um’s and uh’s — from your speech.  Continue reading…

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www.artofmanliness.com  

 

                     

How to Install Flame Throwers to a Car

By Chris Carlson Hot Rods

Have you ever wanted to make your car shoot flames out of the exhaust? Well now you can with this DIY video showing you how to install them. Never thought it was that easy too!

This video shows you step by step how to install flame throwers on your hot rod. We used a kit from Speedway Motors to install them on a 1965 Thunderbird for the Carlson Girls.

 

How to unlock if your locked out

 Unlock your car in 10 seconds

Almost everyone gets in a sticky situation with locked doors and keys still in the car. Here is a pretty easy way to unlock your doors just using your shoe lace. We know this won’t work with newer cars, but there is still many older ones on the road!

How to build your own record player

Jeremy Justice: How To Build Your Own Record Player

 So you’ve got a few records and you want to delve into the vinyl hobby a little further. One place to start would be your turntable. There are an endless amount of options when choosing record players from £100 yard sale finds to £250,000 ultra high-end reference turntables. Stashed somewhere in the middle, there is the DIY turntable. A DIY turntable is exactly what it sounds like; a turntable you build yourself. There are many options when building your own turntable, in fact you are only limited buy your own creativity. I will layout a couple of different approaches to give you with some basic knowledge of turntable design. Armed with this seed of information and Google you can build your own turntable and have a lot of fun doing it…

Custom creations can range from minimalistic designs like this turntable made by fellow tattoo artist Mike Tweed,

to this more elaborate, albeit less practical, multi-tonearmed table, complete with DIY unipivot tonearms, made by myself.

Here is a basic overview of the essential parts that make up a turntable:

  • Plinth- the plinth is the base of the turntable
  • Platter and bearing- the platter is the part the record sits on, supported by a spindle which sits in the bearing
  • Tonearm- the tonearm is the pivoted arm that allows the cartridge (needle) to track the record
  • Motor- for this article we will be using external variable speed motors available online.

To start, you must first decide on the parts you will be using. A plinth can be made out of just about anything: wood, slate, and acrylic are a few of the more popular materials used. The material of the plinth does have a great effect on the sound of the turntable. You could choose to experiment with different materials or go with tried and true methods for more predictable results.

When looking for a platter I recommend using a platter and bearing from a vintage transcription turntable as demonstrated by Mike Tweed’s turntable. These platter and bearing assemblies can be found online and work great. It is possible to cut your own platter out of wood , however it is essential for the platter to be perfectly round so a CNC or water jet-type of cut will be necessary.

Moving on to the tonearm- The possibilities are endless here. Many different tonearms are available in just about every price range. If you choose to buy a tonearm, do some online research. Reviews of just about any tonearm model are available and can help you find the one best suited for your project. You may also choose to build your own DIY tonearm. The first place to start with DIY tonearms is a unipivot design, where the arm pivots on a single point. Much like tattoo machine building, tonearm building tends to suck you in. It can be really fascinating, difficult, and rewarding.

Once you have chosen your parts, plinth design is as simple as marking the distance from your center spindle to the tonearm. This is the only really essential measurement of the plinth design. The plinth is your opportunity to really get creative, the shape, size and material are all up to you. Here are a couple of different approaches.

Mike built this turntable out of red oak and Padauk hardwood. He opted to use a platter and bearing from a QRK transcription turntable. Transcription or broadcast turntables make great donor tables because of their sturdy design. These bearings were designed to give trouble-free operation for radio stations, 24 hours a day, day after day, year in, year out. Mike then chose the Rega rb250 tonearm. This tonearm is an elegant design with strong aftermarket support and endless upgradeability. Using the mounting distance needed for the tonearm, he plotted his center point and tonearm mounting hole on the Red oak. He then cut away the unneeded wood, shaping the final product into a strong and functional tear drop shape. Mounting the motor outboard allows its placement to be moved around to find the best configuration.

For my turntable I wanted something a little different. While its design is certainly wild and attention grabbing, its main element is function. By keeping the plinth diameter close to that of the platter and placing the supports outside of that diameter I can mount up to three tonearms quite easily. Why would you need three tonearms on one turntable you ask? Well for me I wanted to have a set up where I could design different tonearms and have a reference platform to test them on. I started with the platter from a Transcriptors hydraulic reference turntable (the one used in Clockwork Orange!). Then using downloaded crop circle geometry I plotted my center point and three outboard mounting points for tonearms. I cut out the plinth into a four interlocking circles design using a simple jig saw and some extra plywood. The really fun feature on this table is the tonearms. The first one is made from a drumstick.

I used the dimensions of a 12” tonearm. There are many benefits to the 12” design and it is a little easier to work with. I used mostly household items for this arm, including nuts and bolts, some foam core board and a penny. I even used some needle bars to add some tattoo flavor to it. For my second attempt,

I used some flat Zebra wood and a scratch awl for the pivot point. This arm uses the geometry of the smaller 9” Rega tonearms and again nuts and bolts were used for the adjustable counter weight.



Overall this is a very brief introduction to DIY turntables. If you would like to build one, an enormous amount of information is available online. This has been a very rewarding experience and I highly recommend it to anyone.